Seeing Black Panther in theaters was the first time that I had seen African fashion on the big screen in such a dignifying and respectable way. As a Nigerian woman, a lot of the styles of the outfits I had seen and worn growing up (from weddings to Easter celebrations to graduations) but I never really conceptualized them in my mind in the way I saw on the screen. It was cool and fresh. It was also powerful.
Fashion and power are two things that go hand in hand in fact, “dress is a powerful weapon of control and dominance but it can also be both subversive and empowering” (Vestoj, 2017) In fact the fashion system itself allows power relations to be “built and maintained” and I think this is represented by the who and the what: who are the designers and what fashion trends are they creating. In Black Panther, the outfits represented power and were worn by famous, talented professional actors and actresses.
Not only this but Ruth E. Carter (pictured) as a black women designed the clothing for the predominantly black cast in referring to this Carter says, “I’ve been doing this for 30 years, and they’re honoring me back by being in costume, by dressing the part, and by showing me their versions of what I have presented.”
On a similar note, I wanted to connect my impression of fashion and power back to Native people. When doing research I read up on Bethany Yellowtail, a Native Los Angeles fashion designer (to which I’ve included some of her famous pieces) who is credited as being a part of the “new generation of Native designers blending tradition with couture” (Linn, 2016).
Yellowtail (pictured) says that her and others are “speaking loudly and not being afraid to let our voices be heard for the first time. We’re telling our stories directly. They’re not being translated for us.” Yellowtail draws on her Apsaalooke (Crow) and Northern Cheyenne roots to create her pieces in her fashion line B. Yellowtail. (Check it out here! https://www.byellowtail.com/)
My main takeaways is there is a huge capacity for power and dignity in the fashion industry, whether that be demonstrated on the big screen or elsewhere. Bethany Yellowtail and Ruth E. Carter are both incredible women who have a deep talent in the fashion industry and have the means to empower the communities they are a part of. After I watched Black Panther, I wanted to strut the rest of my life in trad (as we call it). Rachel Zoe said, Style is a way to say who you are without having to speak and style infused with culture and tradition is a powerful force to communicate that with deeper meaning.
Sources:
http://www.lamag.com/mag-features/la-woman-2017/
https://www.kcet.org/shows/artbound/bethany-yellowtail-belongs-to-a-new-generation-of-native-designers-blending-tradition
http://www.vulture.com/2018/02/black-panther-costume-designer-ruth-e-carter-on-8-looks.html
http://vestoj.com/issues/issue-four-on-fashion-and-power/
http://www.latimes.com/fashion/la-ig-black-panther-stylist-20180215-htmlstory.html
This past Summer, I went to Mexico and bought a beautiful, embroidered shirt and dress that are traditional to the indigenous communities of Mexico. For my little cousin's birthday party, all the women dressed and strutted in our native Mexican dresses, and we felt powerful. Powerful, connected, and divine. We posted photos on social media and received many compliments from both in and outside of our community. But I've seen women wear traditional clothing and be ridiculed for doing so. Often, it's been older, darker, indigenous-looking women. But when I, a light-skinned, college-aged woman wear it, I'm almost praised for it. There is a huge capacity for power and dignity in the fashion industry, but as you say it depends on who wears it and what they are trying to create. I really enjoyed reading this and will continue to reflect on this and the implications on different communities. Thanks for sharing!
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